SEARCH
SEARCH


MENU
Front Door
What's New?
F.A.Q.
Site Map
Customer Gallery
Featured Artists
THE MONSTER SHOP
About Us
Mailbag


SPECIALS
McLaughlin Foam
Mask Kits
Animatronic Displays


INSTRUCTION
Videos and Books
How to Make a Monster
Mask Handbook
Fantastic Dentistry
Mask Painting Demo
Archive
Glossary


Email Us!

Copyright 2004 by
The Monster Makers


How to Make a Monster Mask

By Arnold Goldman
STAGE ONE:  C R E A T I N G   T H E   S C U L P T U R E
Creating the Sculpture
The first step in creating a latex rubber mask is to sculpt a pattern in oil-based clay. The clay is applied to a lifecast armature and roughed-out to establish the general shape. Gradually, as the clay is worked by hand, the sculpture begins to resemble your design idea. As the sculpture nears completion, fine sculpting tools are used to sculpt realistic details. The entire sculpting process can take several hours, or days, to complete. Once the clay sculpture is finished, it is ready to be molded.
 
STAGE TWO:  M A K I N G   T H E   M O L D
Making The Mold
In order to transfer the clay form into rubber, it is first necessary to make a two piece mold out of industrial plaster. The mold is a perfect 3 dimensional copy of the sculpture, except in reverse. Plaster is used because of its porous nature which allows water from the liquid latex rubber to soak into it. To make the mold, a dividing wall is put in place to divide the front and back halves of the sculpture. Plaster is applied evenly to both halves until a sufficient thickness is achieved. Once the mold is complete, the two halves are separated and the clay is cleaned from the mold. The mold is then placed back together, bound, and made ready for the next stage...
 
STAGE THREE:  C A S T I N G   T H E   M A S K
Casting the Mask
All that remains of our original sculpture is captured in the mold imprint. Our goal now is to recreate the sculpture in rubber. For this we use a special liquid latex casting compound called slush latex or mask latex. Mask latex does not require heat to turn into a solid because it is a Room Temperature Vulcanized Rubber (RTV Elastomer), which means it sets and cures at normal room temperature. Pour the liquid latex into your mold, allow it to dwell in the mold for a while, then pour the excess material back into the latex drum. The latex which remains in the plaster mold forms a skin that evenly coats the interior of the mold. When this latex skin is dry, peel it gently from the mold.
 
STAGE FOUR:  P A I N T I N G   T H E   M A S K
Painting the Mask
To complete the mask, a rubber-based paint is applied with an airbrush. Once a color scheme is chosen, an overall color called the base coat is applied first. Next, a shading color is sprayed into all of the lowpoints of the mask to simulate shadows. Highlight paint is used in a similar manner except that it is sprayed onto the highpoints of the mask to simulate light hitting the surface. To finish the mask, eyes and teeth are painted along with any other fine details. Lastly, a protective, clear flexible varnish is applied to give a natural (or unnatural, depending on your monster!) shine. This also acts to preserve your mask for years to come.

WANT MORE INFO?
For more detailed information, get the Mask Makers Handbook, which features complete step-by-step instructions in a lavishly-illustrated, easy-to-read format.